Second City, Second Thoughts

There’s a lot to like about Arequipa.

The former capital is Peru’s second largest city, home to a rich colonial history. Its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site lined with colorful homes, grand churches, and an array of museums and universities. The city also houses a budding food scene (recs on map), hosts thriving markets, and sources the best alpaca sweaters in Peru. Just one touch of a sweater made from the ultra-fine wool of a vicuña (the smaller cousin of the alpaca) and your life may be changed forever.

However, I didn’t find much to love about Arequipa.

Part of that was on us. With only 3 days in the city, we didn’t take advantage of the vast outdoors that Arequipa has to offer, like the popular treks to Colca Canyon, El Misti or Chachani Volcano. But the bigger part of it was my growing inner conflict with colonial history and its complicated consequences, all on prominent display in Arequipa. Yeah, I know that’s a little deeper than “missing nature.” But I can’t shake it. The unasked questions have grown louder as we’ve learned more of the ugly truths during our travels these past few months. How many communities were displaced and lives were sacrificed in building this church? Why are there more memorials erected for the colonizers than the colonized? Why is this local dish “inspired” by indigenous flavors - shouldn’t those be the same thing? What would a resource-rich, culturally advanced South America have looked like without such destructive colonization? Would taking Quechua or Aymara in high school be as common as taking French or English today? It’s something that has lingered with me on this entire trip.

On a lighter note, we did enjoy ourselves in Arequipa. Fortunately we got to spend quality time with Isha and Sasanka, marking the beginning of our sibling and friends visit in Peru. It was a blast, even beyond bar-hopping and food-touring for the best chilcanos and picanterías we could find. We walked the city-within-a-city Saint Catarina monastery and visited Juanita, a preserved Incan mummy from the 1500s, at the Museo Santuarios Andinos. And we took an impromptu chocolate-making class from a chocolate sommelier. Yes, that is how he introduced himself in person and on his business card. And no, that’s not a real job title... yet. He set the bar high from the start and proceeded to crush expectations with passionate and fun demonstrations of all things chocolate. If you can grab a class with Adrian at Chaqchao Organic Chocolates, do it.

Quick slideshow of highlights from our time in Arequipa below. Cusco is next!