The Galápagos
Our last stop in South America.
Although the finality loomed, we ended the first leg of our world trip with a bang on the Galápagos Islands. Over 14 days, we covered the 3 major islands of San Cristóbal, Santa Cruz and Isabela along with many day trips out to smaller islands. Those two weeks of island-hopping were a childhood dream come true, and it’s not hard to see why. Cue Under the Sea Disney music:
Where do I even begin? Trying to summarize two weeks in a single place is tough, especially one as special as the Galápagos.
I’ll start with this - add the Galápagos to your bucket list. See it before we lose it. I know it’s already on the bucket list for many family and friends, so I’ll also lay out some helpful details at the end. It took a fair amount of planning but it blew away our high expectations.
Sunsets, lava tunnels, lumbering tortoises and darkest tans of our lives
What makes the Galápagos Islands so special is the explosion of biodiversity that sits right in front of you. It’s not hiding in the jungle or deep under the sea. The wildlife is right there, swimming alongside you during a shallow snorkel, crossing your path on a bike ride, or greeting you while stroll through the docks. And these are not your everyday New York pigeons, although they sometimes carry the confidence of one. They’re beautiful, larger-than-life animals that coexist with the islanders. More than once we were stuck in small traffic jams thanks to a 500-pound Galápagos tortoise crossing the street - can’t say I’ve ever been happier in traffic. And it’s impossible to avoid seals anywhere on the islands. They’re like the friendly dogs of the Galápagos, always ready to greet you as you step off the boat and napping away their afternoons on the beach or benches across town. Even in the water, I frequently found myself running into giant sea turtles while snorkeling and baby sharks while swimming along the shore. Spending time so close to the island’s wildlife was easily our favorite part about the Galápagos.
Giant tortoises and seals, two creatures you’ll find everywhere on the islands that never get old
The size, diversity and boldness of Galápagos wildlife are all a product of the archipelago’s isolation, which allowed evolution to take its course over thousands of years without threat from major predators. In fact, the first mammals to ever make it to the islands were humans, only a few hundred years ago. Without predators, competition for food and mates became the primary drivers of evolution, giving rise to tortoises the size of your labrador, blue-footed boobies with Crayola-colored feet, and iguanas with a knack for swimming. It’s a spectacular “little world within itself” like Darwin said, a living story of science and natural wonder that begs to be written differently than other places that suffered fateful endings from industrialization or overtourism. It’s a place that’s asking to be respected not ruined, shared not swindled, protected not exploited.
Island residents, including a few endemic species like the blue-footed boobies and marine iguanas
On that end, I was optimistic about what I saw in the Galápagos. Rather than paint tourism as evil or conservation efforts as altruistic, the Galápagos took a balanced approach that I really appreciated (and because I’m a policy nerd). For example, an exhibition at Charles Darwin Research Center in Santa Cruz quantified the value of a shark alive versus dead. Their studies found that protecting sharks versus hunting them is significantly more valuable to their society because they promote a healthy marine ecosystem, which in turn drives more ecotourism. Armed with this knowledge, the islands have invested in strong shark protection programs and research. Or for example, you won’t find a single Starbucks or Hilton on the islands. It’s all local establishments, so the community benefits directly from tourism and is aligned with the longevity of its growth. Pair that with the government’s other policies, like its push to make 100% of the Galápagos’s energy renewable by 2020 or permits limiting daily boats to key sites, and you have a template for tourism that looks at environmental impact and economic growth as complementary, not as strict tradeoffs. In an increasingly polarizing world, it was refreshing to see smart policies that lift our communities and our environment.
Be warned, the Galápagos will most definitely spoil your future snorkeling trips
Every time we reflect on our experience on the Galápagos, we seem to love it more. From adventurous days spent under the sun getting the darkest tans of our lives to the long life conversations spent with friendly locals (🤙🏽 to Eddie, our go-to guy, and Ricardo, our surf instructor), the Galápagos held some of our happiest memories of South America. I hope it continues to be protected. It’s a special place that I wish our children get to experience so they can appreciate Mother Nature’s creativity when left to her own devices.
Recommendations
Land vs Cruise
This biggest decision you’ll make is how to travel through the Galápagos - land or cruise. Land-based travel means making 1-2 major islands your hub and doing day trips to other islands. Cruises are typically mid-sized yachts or catamarans versus your enormous vacation liners. The major tradeoff between them is saving time (cruises) versus saving money (land).
Cruises: All-inclusive cruises are great for covering the major sites efficiently and traveling hassle-free. They can run from a few days to a few weeks, but 8 days is usually the sweet spot. Do your upfront research about the boats (reputation, large vs small, budget vs luxury) and the route itineraries (specific islands, number of days, start and end ports). Reputable operators fill quickly, so book at least 9 months in advance. But like I said, they’re pricey. Assume $2,000 to $5,000+ per person for a week-long itinerary on any reputable boat.
Last-Minute Cruises: If you’re flexible, you can book “last-minute” cruises to save 50%+. Book these about 1 month in advance for the best balance of deals and availability.
Land: We opted for a land-based itinerary because we couldn’t secure a last-minute cruise within our budget. We ended up loving it. I recommend this option if you have more time (at least 10 days), prefer operating at your own pace, and are looking for a less expensive travel option. Hotels or hostels cost $25 to $250+ per night. Day trips outside the major islands cost $50 to $250+ per person depending on the tour. Plus, traveling by land directly supports the local community. The drawback, however, is time. Travel time for day trips to most islands usually take 1-2 hours each way.
Resources
Galapagos Cruise Links: The Kayak for finding last minute cruises. Helpful starting point for research.
Galapagos Natural Life: Old school site with last minute cruise deals. Ditto above, helpful starting point to research boats and compare itineraries.
TripAdvisor Land-Based Guide: By far the best guide on traveling the Galápagos by land from a TA member. Great for general info on the islands, too. We printed this before going.
Our Favorites
The 3 major islands are Santa Cruz (most popular), San Cristobal (balanced) and Isabela (most untouched).
Santa Cruz (Puerto Ayora)
North Seymour Island day trip for the blue-footed boobies, red-throated frigate birds and land iguanas
Pinzon Island for great snorkeling and penguins if you’re lucky
Tortuga Bay for the marine iguanas, chill swimming and kayaking
Darwin Research Station for island history and giant tortoise breeding center
Check out the Windrose boat if you’re looking for a luxury yacht experience for a day trip
Eat and drink at Muelle Darwin, Santa Cruz Brewery, and 1835 Coffee
Stay at Semilla Verde, 20 minutes outside of the bustle of Puerto Ayora, for an amazing villa with free-roaming giant tortoises
San Cristóbal (Puerto Baquierzo Moreno)
Kicker Rock day trip for deep water snorkeling or diving with hammerheads. Usually combined with shallow snorkeling at Manglecito Beach, terrific for sea turtles.
Galapaguera Cerro Colorado was our favorite giant tortoise breeding center
Tijeretas Bay is a short walk behind the Interpretation Center with great views of the island and Kicker Rock, as well as a good beginner’s snorkeling spot
Eat and drink at Fresco Cafe and Muyu
Isabela (Puerto Villamil)
Los Tunneles day trip for lava tunnels, a very different landscape from rest of Galápagos. Usually combined with a snorkel to nearby mangrove bay with plenty of sea turtles and sharks.
Bike ride to the Wall of Tears. The wall is underwhelming but the ride is great for crossing giant tortoises, exploring mangroves, and more.
Take surf lessons with Penguin and Paddle
Not many spots to eat, try El Valero and El Faro. Grab a beachside drink at Beto’s Beach Bar.
Our final friendly tortoise. ✌🏽 & 🐢 Galapagos!
